In-Depth: How Heuer, Breitling, And Hamilton Brought The Automatic Chronograph To The World 50 Years Ago

In-Depth: How Heuer, Breitling, And Hamilton Brought The Automatic Chronograph To The World 50 Years Ago

It’s a notable story, at any rate in the community of vintage fake watch prices gatherers. It’s a tale around perhaps the main occasions in the historical backdrop of watches. 

And so it has been practically mandatory for bloggers and columnists to distribute stories of the race between three fake watch prices companies (or joint endeavors of fake watch prices companies) to deliver the main programmed chronograph . There were three challengers – Seiko, working alone in Japan; Zenith, around the hour of its procurement of Movado; and the joint endeavor between the Swiss brands Heuer, Breitling, and Hamilton-Buren working with movement expert Dubois-Depraz. 

Oddly, right up ’til today, there are three victors of the race, contingent upon how the “race” is characterized. In January 1969, Zenith freely presented a model of its programmed chronograph, despite the fact that apparently the main “El Primero” chronographs were offered to clients just in Fall 1969. Seiko aficionados highlight codes on case-backs to propose that the Reference 6139 chronograph was created in March 1969, notwithstanding, these fake watch prices were sold uniquely in Japan and it gives the idea that retail deals outside Japan started in 1970. 

A spread from the program for the 1969 Basel fake watch prices Fair shows a portion of the “Chronomatics” that would be appeared by Heuer, Hamilton and Breitling. 

Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton presented their new “Chronomatic” fake watch prices at public interviews hung on March 3, 1969, all the while at 5:00 PM in Geneva and 11:00 AM in New York City. 

In early April 1969, the three brands showed their fake watch prices at the Basel fake watch prices Fair, together having at any rate 100 examples to impart to the media and their retailers. Store receipts from July and August 1969 build up that clients had the option to purchase the new Chronomatic fake watch prices by the Summer of 1969. 

The front of the Official Bulletin of the 1969 Basel fake watch prices Fair reported the dispatch of the world’s first self-winding chronographs .

In this posting, instead of recapping the race, we will investigate this part of fake watch prices history from an alternate point of view. We will take a gander at the arrangement of 23 programmed chronographs offered by Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton when the fake watch prices were most readily accessible in retail channels around the globe, throughout the mid year of 1969. fake watch prices authorities often see history and indexes with a thin spotlight on their supported image. In this example, a look across the Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton Chronomatic lists shows a rich and changed choice of fake watch prices with every one of the models best comprehended with regards to the models offered by the other brands.

Additionally, we will investigate the inceptions of the Chronomatic plans. We will in general think about the Chronomatic group of fake watch prices as exemplifying the style of the 1970s, and indeed that is when the vast majority of these fake watch prices were sold. A nearer survey of the Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton portfolios affirms that the style of these fake watch prices was profoundly established in the plan upset of the “Swinging Sixties”.

Venture 99

To comprehend the programmed chronographs that Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton offered in the mid year of 1969, we start with the jobs of the accomplices in their joint dare to build up the world’s first programmed chronographs (called “Venture 99”). At the point when the fame of programmed fake watch prices being sold by its competitors started to cut into the deals of its chronographs (which were all physically twisted), Heuer left on the task to build up the programmed chronograph. 

First, Heuer enrolled Buren, a gifted producer of fake watch prices movements, that had built up the slim miniature rotors that appeared to be encouraging to control the new chronographs. 

Buren’s development of slight miniature rotor movements (calibers 1000 and 1001), in 1957, was crucial for the Caliber 11 programmed chronograph movements that the firm constructed 10 years later. 

Next, Dubois-Depraz joined the group. An accomplished architect and maker of modules giving complications to fake watch prices and clocks, Dubois-Depraz would build up the chronograph module that would be mated with the Buren fake watch prices movement. Hamilton wound up with a seat at the table, when it obtained Buren, in 1966.

In his personal history, Jack Heuer discloses how Breitling came to be an individual from the Project 99 joint endeavor. Confronted with the tremendous expense of building up the new movement, and shy of capital for its own business, Heuer saw Breitling as a profound pocket that could supply financing for the task. In spite of the fact that Heuer and Breitling were rivals, the way that Heuer was more grounded in the United States, the United Kingdom and Germany, while Breitling was more grounded in France and Italy, would moderate the competitive effect of the joint effort. In any case, we should envision that Heuer was frantic for capital when it welcomed Breitling to join the endeavor.

Project 99 brought about the development of the Caliber 11 movement (alluded to, with its replacement models, as the “Chronomatic” movement). The Caliber 11 movement utilized secluded development, mating Buren’s miniature rotor fueled fake watch prices movement with a chronograph module created by Dubois Depraz. fake watch prices controlled by the Chronomatic movements are handily perceived – the crown is on the left half of the fake watch prices with the pushers in the standard situations on the correct side. The Caliber 11 has its hour recorder at nine o’clock, its moment recorder at three o’clock, and a date window at six o’clock, with no running seconds register. 

The Caliber 11 movement utilizes 17 gems and Incabloc stun insurance. The movement estimates 13.75 ligne, with a width of 31mm and a stature of 7.7mm. The recurrence was 19,800 vibrations each hour, with a force hold of 42 hours. In the Caliber 12 movement, the recurrence was changed to 21,600 vibrations each hour; the Caliber 15 movement utilized a KIF stun assurance system. 

The Heuer Chronomatics

An early advertisement from Heuer proclaimed that men of action like pilots, dashing drivers, rallyists and yachtsmen could now wear a programmed fake watch prices that was likewise a chronograph.  

In the mid-1960s, Heuer’s line-up of chronographs comprised of its two leader models, the Autavia (presented in 1962) and the Carrera (presented in 1963), just as an assortment of other more affordable models, known exclusively by their reference numbers. Heuer’s third named model, the Camaro, would be presented in 1968. 

As Heuer started to get ready for the expansion of programmed chronograph models before the decade’s over, the company adopted the strategy of proceeding to showcase its index of manual-twisting models, in their present arrangements. The new Chronomatic models would be added to the list as top notch models, being sold close by the past models. 

Carreras

18 karat gold Chronomatic Carrera (Reference 1158), with silver dial.

Manual Carreras from the 1960s utilized conventional round cases, with particular rakish hauls. Dials were either dark or white, however from that point, the assortment of Carreras increments rapidly. The registers were either coordinating or differentiating; there were tachymeter, decimal minutes and throbs scales; calendar alternatives incorporated a straightforward date just as triple calendar (day, date and month); and materials included treated steel and 18 karat and gold-plated models. 

Heuer went to its supported casemaker Piquerez to plan the new case for the Chronomatic Carrera. Instead of drawing a totally new style of case for the Carrera, Piquerez created a characteristic expansion of a case that had been draw by Gerald Genta, for the Omega Constellation, in 1964. In Genta’s progressive “C-Shape” case, the hauls, instead of being expansions of the situation, stream in a constant bend from the crown, giving a C-shape from carry to-drag. The C-shape case end up being famous in the last part of the 1960s, being utilized by a few brands at fake watch costs and furthermore developed to house an assortment of manual chronograph movements (for instance, Omega’s Caliber 321 and Eterna’s Valjoux 72). For the new form of the Carrera, Piquerez assembled a thicker style C-shape case, however the originators practiced limitation in keeping the size (38.5mm) close to the base that could house the new movement. 

Early programmed Carreras with 18 karat gold and hardened steel cases.

There were two forms of the Chronomatic Carrera – a treated steel model with a charcoal/blue dial and white registers and a 18 karat gold model with a silver dial. A form with a silver dial and differentiating dim registers before long followed, however the dial is stamped “Programmed Chronograph”, as opposed to “Chronomatic”. Dials of the new Carreras were moderately perfect, with a tachymeter scale set apart on an inward bezel between the dial and the crystal. 

Autavias

The first programmed Autavias had “Chronomatic” across the highest point of the dial. 

Since its presentation in 1962, characterizing highlights of the Autavia model were dark dials with white registers, with a pivoting bezel that was set apart for various capacities (plunging, travel, tachymeter, and so on), and these highlights were conveyed forward to the new Chronomatic Autavias (Reference 1163 MH). Piquerez had planned a C-shape case for the new Carrera, and would deliver a second form for the Autavia, this bigger case (42mm) consolidating the Autavia’s mark turning bezel. 

Through its initial seven years, Autavias had consistently utilized a dark dial with white registers, yet to stamp the development of the Chronomatic Autavia, Heuer would offer a subsequent shading plan – a white dial with differentiating dark registers and blue accents (Reference 1163T). This white-dialed model was worn by Swiss Formula One hero, Jo Siffert, and right up ’til today the Autavias with the white/dark/blue tones are known as the “Sifferts.” 

Monacos

Only the most punctual Caliber 11 chronographs were checked “Chronomatic,” with the words “Programmed Chronograph” utilized on all later models.

As depicted underneath, in 1966 and 1967 Piquerez had planned waterproof fake watch prices cases for Hamilton in radical oval and square shapes. Heuer needed something uncommon for its third programmed chronograph model, and apparently Piquerez had saved the most awesome aspect its forefront plans for this faithful client, a plan that – interestingly – would house a chronograph in a square, waterproof case. The way in to the plan of the Monaco case was a novel monocoque case and bezel, that were held together by inward clips. 

Freed from the imperatives of having any model archetypes, the Chronomatic Monacos utilized a 12 PM blue dial with differentiating white registers, the paint on the early forms having a brushed metallic completion. A charcoal dim variant of the Monaco with coordinating registers would before long join the Heuer line-up, however the dial would be stamped “Programmed Chronograph”, instead of “Chronomatic.”

The early programmed Autavias and Monacos were each offered in two tone schemes.

Early Versus Later Examples

Identifying the main Heuer chronographs to utilize the Caliber 11 movement is simple – the absolute first models all have the name “Chronomatic” across the highest point of the dial, with the model name across the lower part of the dial. At the time Heuer presented the Chronomatics, the United States was the main market for the company, and Heuer realized rapidly that Americans attempted to comprehend that “Chronomatic” signified “programmed chronograph”. Likewise, very quickly after their dispatch, Heuer eliminated the “Chronomatic” from the dial, and for the following 15 years all Heuer models utilizing the Caliber 11 movement (and its descendants) would have the words “Programmed Chronograph” across the lower part of the dial, with the model name across the top.

Two years after the presentation of its programmed Carreras and Autavias, Heuer offered manual-twisting models in a similar style cases.

After dispatching the “Chronomatic” forms of the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco in 1969, around 1971 Heuer created manual-twisting renditions of these models, housed in a similar style cases as the automatics. 

Heuer fundamentally extended the line of Caliber 12-controlled chronographs in 1972, with its presentation of the preposterously styled (and estimated) Calculator, Montreal and Silverstone models. The third era of Caliber 12 models came around 1977, with the Cortina, Daytona, Jarama, Kentucky, Monza and Verona models all showing a more controlled, customary plan.

Three ages of Heuer Caliber 12 chronographs show the style of the 1960s, the over-the-top style of the mid 1970s, and some balance in the last part of the 1970s.  

Heuer kept offering the Caliber 12 controlled models into the mid-1980s. 

The Breitling Chronomatics

An early advertisement for Breitling’s Chronomatics told the brand’s sellers that another client base would run to their stores for the upgraded self-winding chronographs.

While Heuer adopted the strategy of proceeding to sell its 1960s manual chronographs close by its new programmed models (around 1969), with new cases for the manual models coming a few years after the fact (around 1971), Breitling adopted a totally different strategy. When Breitling knew the dimensions of the new Caliber 11 movement (which we can accept that was around 1966), it grew new cases for its arrangement of manual models, with the new cases being planned so they could be effectively adjusted to house the new programmed models. Subsequently, Breitling took the action from its conventional round instances of the 1950s and mid 1960s to the new age of bigger cases that would house the Chronomatic movements, not in 1969, but rather starting in 1966/1967. 

Catalogs and advertisements from the time frame affirm that Breitling dispatched its line of programmed chronographs with five particular cases, as follows: 

Traditional round case with a pivoting bezel and rakish lugs

 Pillow-molded case

Tonneau-molded case

  • 18 karat gold case

Breitling’s particular six-sided case, often portrayed as a “pizza” case, which was utilized for a few distinctive references

Round Case – Reference 2110

The Reference 2110 utilized a conventional round case (38mm), with a pivoting bezel and precise hauls. Dials were either dark with white registers or white with dark registers, all set apart with a tachymeter scale. The hour recorders were set apart with every one of the 12 numerals and the moment recorder included splendid hustling stripes, making it simpler to peruse five moment increments. 

Pad Case – Reference 2111

If the Reference 2110 was the most agreeable of Breitling’s Chronomatics, we start climbing the bend from gentle to wild with the Reference 2111. The 38mm pad case is a softly-adjusted square shape and moderately level across the top surface of the fake watch prices nonetheless, the sides of the case show profound, sensational bends. The dials are either dark or white, each with a differentiating white or blue “surfboard” set evenly across the middle, with the oval registers arranged inside the surfboard.

Tonneau Case – Reference 2112

Breitling Reference 2112 chronographs with pivoting hours and minutes bezels, and the Reference 2114 model with a tachymeter bezel 

Having gone from a customary round case and afterward to a symmetrical pad case, with the Reference 2112 Breitling extended the steel – in a real sense – to offer a tonneau-molded case. A dark bezel outlines the dial, with the hour bezel and minutes bezel turning. The dials and hands offer a look that is like the Reference 2110 models, with the fake watch prices having dark or white dials (both with differentiating registers), and orange hands and accents.

The Reference 2114 was for the most part like the Reference 2112, then again, actually the Reference 2114 had a fixed tachymeter bezel, with the tachymeter scale erased from the dial.

The Pizza Cases

Among the main Chronomatics housed in Breitling’s “pizza” cases were (left to right) the Navitimer, the Cosmonaute, the Chronomat, and the Reference 7651 “Yachting.”  

Of all the cases to at any point house a Breitling Chronomatic movement, the hexagon-formed case utilized for a few of the primary models in 1969 is unquestionably the most particular. In some cases portrayed as the “seared egg” or the “pizza”, these 48mm cases had been presented by Breitling in April 1967, at that point being controlled by the manual-winding Venus 178 movement. Fully expecting the development of the Chronomatic movement, with its crown at nine o’clock, the cases were built so the crown could be situated at either three o’clock (for the manual movement) or at nine o’clock (for the programmed movement). 

At the dispatch of the Chronomatic movement in 1969, Breitling’s hexagon case housed at any rate five distinct renditions of the Chronomatic, with a 6th model appeared in the 1969 list, yet never found in the execution appeared in the catalog. 

The white or dark dialed Chronomat (Reference 1808) had its beginnings in 1940, when Breitling offered its first chronograph fusing the logarithmic slide rule scales into the bezel and dial, just as a scale on the dial for decimal minutes computations. Breitling indexes recommend that the Chronomat models are undeniably appropriate for the mathematicians, designers and businessmen, just as sports and modern timing. 

Breitling’s first inventory for the Chronomatic models showed three adaptations of the Navitimer – the new programmed model, a manual-twisting model in a similar case, and the manual-twisting model in the style of case utilized since the 1950s.  

The Navitimer (Reference 1806) was a continuation of the arrangement of aeronautics chronographs that Breitling had presented in 1954. For the Navitimer, Breitling changed the Chronomat’s logarithmic slide rule to a pilot’s time-speed distance flight computer, and added scales utilized by pilots to calculate fuel utilizations, normal rates and climbing speeds. Breitling proposed that the Navitimer was intended for experts in speed – pilots, yet additionally rally drivers and other sportsmen.

The Cosmonaute (Reference 1809) consolidated similar pilot’s devices as the Navitimer, with the fake watch prices having genuine 24 sign, implying that the hour hand made one unrest each day. The Reference 809 Cosmonaute had been presented in 1962 and become the primary Swiss wristwatch in space when it was worn by space traveler Scott Carpenter on May 24, 1962.

The fourth and fifth Chronomatic models to be housed in the “pizza” cases were the Reference 7651 models. The Reference 7651 Co-Pilot model was a continuation of the arrangement of chronographs presented by Breitling in 1953, with the moment recorder set apart to tally the 15 minutes for the pilot’s pre-flight check. While any remaining Chronomatic fake watch prices presented in 1969 had recorders for 12 hours, the Reference 7651 had six-hour limit. The “Yachting” variant of the Reference 7651 included a  rotating bezel that was set apart in red and white segments, to tally down the 15 minutes to the beginning of a yacht race. 

Breitling’s 1969 index likewise showed a Reference 2115 GMT model in the “pizza” case, however this model appears to have just been presented later, in an alternate tone scheme. 

18K Gold Case – Reference 2116

The last of Breitling’s original of Chronomatics was the Reference 2116, a restricted run of 100 fake watch prices housed in a customarily molded 18 karat gold case. The champagne dial had differentiating dark registers and tachymeter and throb scales. 

Early Versus Later Examples

As depicted above, recognizing the absolute first Heuers to utilize the Caliber 11 movement is simple – we just search for “Chronomatic” on the dial or certain different telltales, after Heuer changed to the “Programmed Chronograph” dials. Perceiving the most punctual Breitling Chronomatics ends up being seriously difficult. In the first place, though Heuer utilized the name “Chronomatic” just on the soonest of its Caliber 11 fake watch prices Breitling kept on utilizing “Chronomatic” all through the creation of a large portion of the models. So it requires some cautious examination, and the utilization of chronic numbers, to distinguish Breitling’s most punctual programmed chronographs. Second, the Breitling index of Chronomatic models offered a significantly more extensive choice of fake watch prices than the Heuer inventory, so the sheer assortment of early models can make it hard to follow the models. 

After the dispatch of the primary Chronomatics, Breitling directed its concentration toward completely building up its line-up of these programmed chronographs. Brilliant new models to possess the “pizza” case incorporated the Chrono-Matic GMT (Reference 2115), which was presented in 1970, and the SuperOcean (Reference 2105), a jump fake watch prices with a 20 ATM waterproof rating, from 1971 (shown above). 

New cases incorporated the Pult “Bullhead” (Reference 2117, above focus), and the TransOcean (Reference 2119, above left), a nearly round case with a coordinated arm band. The presentation of the Caliber 15 movement in 1972 prompted a progression of crazy, asymmetrical dials (above right), while Breitling offered its appreciation to more moderate styles with new forms of the Navitimers and Chronomats in customary round cases. 

The last model dispatched by Breitling, in 1977, was the Reference 2130, from the start like the primary Reference 2110 models, however with exquisite lyre-molded (wound) lugs. 

The Hamilton Chronomatics

In its first advertisement for the Chronomatics, Hamilton expresses that its super thin self-twisting movement with an indented planetary rotor made oneself winding chronograph possible.

As troublesome as it could be to index the assortment of Caliber 11 fake watch prices offered by Heuer and Breitling, the line-up of Hamilton Chronomatics was generally basic. Advertisements from Spring 1969 recommend that Hamilton offered a decision of three programmed chronographs, utilizing two distinct cases. These models were delivered by Heuer, for Hamilton, maybe part of the joint endeavor agreement for Project 99. 

Fontainebleau

Just as Heuer and Breitling offered a scope of Chronomatic models going from tranquil, conventional instances of the Heuer Carrera and the Breitling Reference 2110 to the incredible shapes and sizes of the Heuer Monaco and Breitling’s “pizza” cases, Hamilton offered the client looking for the modern style its Fountainbleau fake watch prices Hamilton had presented its line of Fontainebleau fake watch prices in 1966, with a line-up of jazzy fake watch prices for the two men and women. The principal adaptation of the Fontainbleau (from 1966) was a one of a kind elongated shape that challenges depiction (however we will check it out underneath). The subsequent rendition (from 1967) was a square, waterproof case, that could be seen as an archetype of the Heuer Monaco. 

With the Fontainebleau chronograph, Hamilton stacked a Caliber 11 movement into the first of these two cases. Depicting the state of the Fontainebleau case is troublesome (or as a designing companion of mine said, “I can give you the mathematical recipe, yet the words are more troublesome”). In any case, how about we give it a try.

Start with a huge round tempered steel case (47mm across the dial). Cut off the top and base territories of the circle with level harmonies (which will give a spot to the lash to append). Drop a round dial with a brushed dim completion into the focal point of the fake watch prices at that point add differentiating dark registers that copy the state of the case, with a likewise molded date window at the lower part of the dial. As a last accolade for this abundance of mathematical structures, occupy the space between the dial and the case with a dark spine, to give a stage to 10 applied hour markers. Inspect the rear of the case, and the abnormality proceeds – monocoque development, with the movement got to by turning a bayonet fitting 90 degrees. 

Chrono-Matic

Hamilton’s Chrono-Matic was the littlest of the Caliber 11 chronographs, at 36.5mm across.

Hamilton probably depleted its stock of mathematical stunts with the Fontainebleau, and the plan of its Chrono-Matic models could barely have been any simpler. 

The Chrono-Matics utilized a conventional round case with precise drags, in a moderately little size (36.5mm), making it the littlest of the fake watch prices fueled by the Caliber 11 movement. Shading combinations incorporated a white dial with differentiating dark registers (and a coordinating inward bezel) or a model with a blue dial and registers. Both these models have an internal bezel (pressure ring) with a tachymeter scale, with the bezel appearing differently in relation to the shade of the dial. 

After The Early Ones

Hamilton presented its Chronomatic models with just three models, yet before long added to this line-up. The Pan-Europ 703 chronograph had a pivoting bezel, in the style of the Heuer Autavia, and was likewise created in a GMT model, with a 24-hour bezel and an extra GMT hand. Hamilton’s huge Chrono-Matic Count-Down offered both GMT and world time complications, with three crowns on the correct side of the case (the extra two being for turning internal bezels) and two pushers, for the chronograph, on the left half of the case.

The Chronosport pamphlet (from 1969) shows how a main expert in fake watch prices for motorsports offered the new Heuer and Breitling models. 

Getting Them – 1969

Considered together, the programmed chronographs being sold by Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton throughout the Summer of 1969 offered fake watch prices devotees a rich determination of decisions. Those needing “gentle” programmed chronographs may have inclined toward the Heuer Carrera or the Hamilton Chrono-Matic, while those looking for “wild” could have an assortment of garnishes on their Breitling “pizzas”, the mathematical riddle called the Fontainebleau or the trying shape and shades of Heuer’s Monaco. 

Considered together, Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton appreciated overall conveyance, so these models were accessible in a wide scope of retail locations, just as subject matter experts (for instance, index companies that took into account racers, pilots or architects). In thinking about which companies “dominated the race” to offer the primary programmed chronographs, if the measure is accessibility of an expansive determination of chronographs in retail channels around the planet, at that point there is no uncertainty that the Project 99 group completed first.

Gathering Them – 2019

Just as Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton offered a changed determination of programmed chronographs in 1969, after fifty years the vintage fake watch prices aficionado looking for one of these “first clump” models is given a scope of decisions, at various value focuses. Section level decisions under $4,000 may incorporate the Heuer Carreras, Hamilton Fontainebleau or Chrono-Matics, or the Breitling Reference 2110/2111/2112 models. The center of the pack ($4,000 to $12,000) might incorporate both of the Breitling Reference 7651s (co-pilot or yachting) or a Reference 1163 Autavia with either a dark or white dial (and “Programmed Chronograph” on the dial). The gatherer perusing at the highest point of the Caliber 11 pyramid (more than $12,000) – and who is honored with persistence for a long hunt – could focus on the Heuers with the name “Chronomatic” on the dial or the 18 karat gold models from Heuer or Breitling. 

A Chronosport index (from 1969/1970) shows the line-up of Heuer and Breitling models.

The Revolution

Watch aficionados have praised the upset that the programmed chronograph brought to the universe of fake watch prices and, right up ’til the present time, most extravagance chronographs keep on being controlled via programmed movements. In any case, in these equivalent years that the Project 99 group was laboring on the technical parts of the new movement, the three brands – Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton – were arranging a transformation in the plan of their new programmed chronographs. 

Faced with quartz fake watch prices the 1970s would bring colossal difficulties and set-backs for these brands, and for all producers of mechanical fake watch prices Still, with the dispatch of the Chronomatics in the mid year of 1969, Heuer, Breitling and Hamilton praised the best style of the Swinging Sixties.

Visit OnTheDash for a comprehensive reference index about the Chronomatics and make sure to look at #Chronomatic50 on Instagram to see many instances of fantastic Chronomatic fake watch prices too!

Writer’s Note: Thanks to @WatchFred for giving images and data to this posting, just as motivation to Breitling and its vintage enthusiasts. 

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